Anti-Aging Skin Care Polyphenols

Polyphenols are among the current plant-derived anti-aging ingredients that have the widest range of skin types and are the most gentle. They can also cover multiple pathways of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and auxiliary repair of photodamage. They are by no means an IQ tax, but they cannot replace classic anti-aging drugs such as VA and VC. Only by choosing the right subtype and using it in the right scenario can it be most effective.

If you have ever eaten freshly picked grape skins, or drank strong tea without sugar, you will definitely have an impression of the astringent taste, which is polyphenols. This type of substance is originally a "self-protective ingredient" used by plants to fight against ultraviolet rays, insect damage, and oxidative damage. When used in skin care, it is equivalent to hiring an on-call free radical cleaner for the skin - catching those free radicals that are running around and eating collagen, and at the same time suppressing the inflammatory reaction on the surface of the skin. Inflammation happens to be one of the core culprits of photoaging, dullness, and sensitive redness.

In fact, there has always been a lot of controversy over polyphenols in the skin care circle. Moderate ingredients regard it as a life-saving straw for sensitive skin and anti-aging. After all, it is not as easy to rot the face as alcohol A, and it is not as easy to stain the cuticles as yellow as prototype VC. It can be used by pregnant women, sensitive skin, and during the buffer period of acid brushing. There is no burden on long-term use. ； However, functionalists have always felt that it is "tasteless": most polyphenols have large molecular weights, and without special packaging technology, the transdermal rate is very low. At best, they can only act on the epidermis to improve dullness, but cannot touch the collagen in the dermis, and cannot solve deep-seated aging problems such as fine lines and sagging. They are icing on the cake and are not worth spending a lot of money on.

Both sides are actually reasonable. I have been using polyphenol products for three or four years, and I have mixed feelings. In the winter of the past two years, I was ignorant and directly applied 0.25% alcohol A. My face was rotten without establishing a tolerance, and my red blood streaks burst out. Even ordinary moisturizers stung when I applied it. I relied on the EGCG (Green Tea Polyphenols Core Activity) of a certain theater brand. After a week or so, most of the redness was reduced. Even the dark yellow after staying up all night was much lighter after half a month. During that time, I didn’t dare to use other functional ingredients. The anti-aging effect was all due to it. But what if it alone can eliminate the dry lines around my eyes? To be honest, after using it for half a year, there was no movement. Finally, I relied on low-concentration A alcohol and a radio frequency meter to solve the problem.

Don’t close your eyes when you see the word “polyphenols” on the ingredient list. The difference between different subtypes is really huge. Resveratrol has been touted as an "anti-aging miracle drug" in the past few years. It is said that its antioxidant capacity is hundreds of times that of VC. In fact, its photostability is very poor. If the product you buy does not have wrapping technology, it will be white when applied during the day. It may also stain the cuticles yellow. ； What I always keep is a toner with pomegranate polyphenols. When my face feels hot after being exposed to the sun in the summer, I apply a 5-minute water mask on it. It can reduce redness and brighten the skin twice as fast as an ordinary hydrating mask. ； Grape seed polyphenols are more suitable for oily acne-prone skin. In addition to being antioxidants, they can also inhibit excessive oil secretion. In summer, even oil production is reduced.

The biggest pitfall I have ever encountered is being too greedy. I stocked up on three bottles of different polyphenol essences at one time, and applied one each in the morning, afternoon and evening. Within two days, I rubbed them all in until I doubted my life. Afterwards, I applied foundation all over with crumbs. Later, after eating with a friend who makes formulas, I learned that polyphenols themselves are macromolecular active substances. If they are superimposed on products with acids or high-concentration thickeners, complexing reactions will easily occur. Not only will the mud be rubbed, but the activity will also be directly inactivated, which is equivalent to white coating. Now I either use the polyphenol essence alone, or I wait at least 10 minutes when layering other functional ingredients, and wait for it to be completely absorbed before applying the next layer.

Some people think that if you use polyphenols, you don’t need to wear sunscreen? Don’t be silly, no matter how much it can catch free radicals, it can’t block the photodamage caused by ultraviolet rays that directly penetrate into the dermis. You must apply sunscreen and use an umbrella. At most, polyphenols can help you cover the damage that slips through the net and reduce the probability of tanning and aging.

In fact, there is no standard answer to anti-aging. Some people like to use strong drugs for quick results, while others pursue mild and long-term stability. Polyphenols just give people who are afraid of irritation one more choice. Understanding your skin type and needs before choosing is much more useful than following the trend and buying expensive products costing thousands. After all, the best thing to apply on your face is what suits you.